“I get the idea of making sure I like it, but it wouldn’t even make sense for me to take a trip out there a week before I move. It’s a lot of traveling, and there’s nothing I’d learn in those few days that would make a difference. The only important stuff I’d realize would only come after a few weeks or a month, so I might as well just settle there straight away.”

My brother and I were discussing my upcoming move to Portland, Oregon, which I had only decided on as a firm plan four days before. In that time I got my budget together, interviewed with apartments and roommates, and applied to six jobs, but I understood that things still felt a tad last-minute. To get more comfortable with the idea, we decided to treat ourselves to something a little extra special. In that quest, we found ourselves headed to Sam Woo Restaurant. 

Along with most other restaurants I’ve reviewed, this was a suggestion of my friend Bret. Their friend had chosen the spot a few years back for a birthday celebration, and it made enough of an impression where Bret remembered it to this day.

Hong Kong Crabs (Kay Kay L./Yelp)

The restaurant has the stature of a market on the outside, but a few steps inside revealed a much more comfortable environment. This is still quite a fancy spot, but it doesn’t feel overwhelming in any sense. Welcoming is the word, I believe. As soon as we sit down, we’re greeted with expansive menus, offering everything from chicken, beef and noodles to bean curd, fried rice and a wide variety of seafood. Concerning the latter, if you’ve been looking for some tasty abalone or sea cucumber, you can find both here, along with comparatively common fare like lobster, crab, squid, scallops and more. It all looked fantastic ⁠— and we were told as much by Bret ⁠— so it took some time to wrap our heads around our next move.

Noodles (Trenton T./Yelp)

We decided on trying out some of the different seafood options, but even this narrowing down left us with a strong set to choose from. For the appetizer, we landed on the deep fried stuffed crab claws, which we considered an obvious choice. The main course was a slightly tougher decision, but I ended up going for the spicy salt squid, a house special, while my brother opted for the sauteed fish fillet with tender greens, although he had his greens replaced with bok choy. 

While the food was being prepared, we took sips of warm tea that came to the table a few moments before. Nuanced yet refreshing, it tasted more like something we’d have to ask for off the menu, rather than a complimentary starter. Our expectations were slowly climbing.

This slow climbing picked up the pace once the crab legs landed on the table, though. The first image that popped up in my head was a massive coconut shrimp (which isn’t the furthest thing from the truth, given that there’s shrimp in it). My brother considered it a mature chicken nugget. Whatever we were thinking, though, melted away when we dipped our legs in sweet and sour sauce and took our first massive bites. I couldn’t even remember where I was moving as I felt new waves of flavor hit with every chew. The crispy outside didn’t knock us back with grease, instead offering a strong texture with minimal guilt. 

Wonton Noodle Soup (Wing Y/Yelp)

Next up was the sauteed fish and bok choy, which we guessed would be a welcome break from the fried items we enjoyed and had yet to enjoy. Our guess was correct; the fish was divinely tender, offering a subtle and noteworthy umami flavor as well. The combination we were keen on, though, was the dynamic duo of bok choy and fish. We agreed later that this was our best decision of the night. Let me tell you, this bok choy is here to say something; every strong and savory flavor I remember from the best I’ve had is here. This was especially great because the fish turned out to be a perfect vehicle for these flavors, even complementing them. We wondered if we should suggest they put it on the menu, but we forgot what we were talking about as we were entranced by our next bites. 

All that was left, then, was the famed spicy salt squid. As they describe it on the menu, it is indeed “appetizing and mouth-watering,” even before I eat it. I’m a calamari, uhm, enthusiast, so I knew I wouldn’t be disappointed, but  it would only be seconds before I knew whether I would want to, as they say, “come back again and again.” Turns out, I did.

A lot. Even though bites of the squid by itself were a touch dry, I found myself grabbing two or three more at a time right after I swallowed the first. As we took a second to think, though, my brother noticed the bed of greens the squid pieces were resting upon. Here, as always, vegetables were our friends; this combination got rid of any dryness, and only made my eating pace more aggressive. I also enjoyed hitting them with a touch of soy sauce, but that might be a bit too much salt for the average person. The veggies, however, were a perfect fit. 

“At the end of the day,” Saseen said before falling into a food coma in the car, “you have to do what makes you happy. I believe in you no matter what.”

“Awh, thanks buddy. Can’t wait for you to visit.”

“Oh I probably won’t. You don’t even have skiing or climbing around you, so what’s the point?”

Learn more about the restaurant and menu by visiting their website.

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